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JP 2022 Nov Koyo Kansai

Visited Japan in end Nov after the border has reopened to international tourists. It was a 14-day trip from Kansai to Tokyo via Hokuriku – visiting Fukui Prefecture for the first time.

Overall itin – KIX > Osaka > Arima onsen > Kyoto > Fukui > Kanazawa > Tokyo

 

Landed in Osaka/KIX and it roughly took about 40 min to exit into the arrivals lobby, despite possessing the 3 QR codes generated by the Visit Japan Web, and there was no line in immigration.

Headed into the Osaka/Umeda by limo bus and checked into Hotel Granvia Osaka. To our surprise, there was a super-long line on Sunday evening (maybe due to the GoTo program as most were locals) and it took like 50 min to get our room key on the highest Executive floor.

Had our first dinner in Japan (in almost 3 years) in a local “kappo” in West Umeda. Food was so delicious – esp the tempura items.  Felt a bit sorry for the shop – we’re the only customers in that evening until around 8:30pm when we’re about to leave. 

 

 

On the next day we took express bus to Arima onsen (our 3rd stay) in 1 hour.  After dropping our luggage in the onsen hotel, we hiked up to the Zuihoji Koen (Park), passing by the familiar temples and the public onsen bath along the way.  There were some visitors – all locals but not crowded. A senior couple asked me to take photos for them and he offered a handshake after knowing that we’re from Hong Kong.

Koyo had clearly past peak – the driver of the hotel shuttle bus told us it was 1 week ago.  We knew it but that’s the earliest timeline we could visit Japan 🙂

 

Koyo in Arima onsen and Zuihoji Park

 

2nd stay in Kourokan – annexed ryokan of Gekkoen, Arima onsen 

 

Main Chef Omakase course (5 sets daily)

 

 

======>   Kyoto (Part 1)   ======>

 

 

JP 2019 Sep Koyo Kogen onsen (Part 2)

Next we headed further up to Midori-numa (緑沼), another gorgeous koyo spot. As it was one of the few spots with wooden benches and where eating was permitted, it was full of hikers at nearly noon time.

 

 

Did not rest and continue uphill to Ezo-numa (エゾ沼). Koyo was less impressive than in our 1st visit in 2004.

 

 

Next was Shikibu-numa (式部沼) which was probably the most gorgeous pond of the day.

 

Arrived at Daigaku-numa (大学沼) whose resting area was entirely covered in snow and puddles. Took a brief rest and quickly consumed an onigiri where eating was also permitted. 

 

Spoke to park patrols on-duty and attempted further uphill to Kogen-numa but had to give up. That trail had become very slippery due to snow and mud all submerged beneath mountain streams. By then it was past 1pm, chilly at probably 5-6C and many hikers had returned. It was at the same location that wife and I had reached in 2004.

Upon descent took some quick snaps on some swamps such as Kamo-numa, Basho-numa etc.

 

Finally returned to the trailhead at almost 3:30pm.  Took the last shuttle bus (seated) back to the temporary parking lot. Drove back to the onsen hotel at around 5pm – exhausted though grateful.

 

** Lessons learned
Apart from proper mountain hiking gears including waterproof hiking shoes and trekking poles, renting waterproof plastic boots up to shin (on spot) might be a better solution to trails strewn with muddy puddles, mountain streams and possibly snow.

 

 

====>   Ginsendai   ====>

 

 

JP 2019 May Takachiho

After staying in Kumamoto for 2 nights, picked up rental car and headed eastward to Takachiho (in Miyasaki Prefecture).

Dropped by Goroga-taki (height of 50m) and Tsujunkyo (bridge) along the way. As the latter was under repair no access was allowed. Otherwise, water would have been spilling from the centre of the bridge. Nevertheless, the water reflections and new lush green was beautiful.

OTOH, the Goroga-taki (waterfall) was a surprise. While we were looking for ways to get close to the Tsujunkyo where the normal access was blocked,  water was gushing loudly from the parking area.  Followed signs and steps downhill and reached a suspension bridge where this waterfall could be viewed unblocked.

 

 

 

Takachiho (高千穂)

After lunch in nearby road station, parked car at the base of the gorge after some tight elbow turns with sharp drops. Followed a trail along the narrow gorge for about 1 km.  (boat rowing was closed on the day we visited).

The gorge was formed by a river cutting through sheer cliffs, which was  formed from volcanic rocks slowly solidifying while flowing into twisted columns and pillars.

The Manai-no-taki (真名井の滝) splashing into the river against a backdrop of lush green and turquoise water reflections was captivating.

Along the trail, there were points where the river was cutting deep and large potholes at the base of the cliffs. As the trail was  meandering uphill, we caught sight of 3 bridges crossing the gorge at different elevations.  We turned back when we reached the road junction from where we had earlier driven across.  The entire walk took about 1 hour and was fairly easy. 

 

Takachiho Jinja (高千穂神社)

Before heading to our onsen hotel in Mt Aso, we dropped by this Jinja at the entrance to the gorge.

The Jinja was surrounded by tall and old Japanese-Sugi (Cedar) trees. One of them was 800 years old and a “husband-and-wife Sugi” where its bases have merged together.

On the side of the Jinja there was a Yokagura hall where a show is  performed every night.

 

===>   Mt  Aso  ====>

 

JP 2019 April “Snowy” Sakura Matsumoto

Visited Japan for sakura in mid-April for 1 week.

  • Matsumoto Castle and Takato Castle Ruins Park by car from Suwa-ko.
  • Arakurayama Sengen Park and Kawaguchi-ko by car
  • Akagi Senbon-zakura, Miharu-Takizakura, Nihonmatsu as day trips from Tokyo.

 

 

Matsumoto Castle

Right after landing in Tokyo/HND, headed to Suwa-ko by JR express train via Shinjuku. Prior to our arrival, snow was forecasted in Nagano Prefecture, apart from Tohoku etc on that night. Indeed, it had been snowing the entire night and on the next morning, the lake rim was covered in snow. 

 

The Matsumoto Castle was not in my original plan. Due to sunny day being forecasted on the next day, decided to postpone the Takato Castle Ruins Park till then.

Visited the former after picking up car from Suwa-ko and drove very carefully – less than 50km/h and kept longer distance away from vehicles ahead. It took about 1 hour while snowing along the way.

Luckily some sakura trees were already in full bloom inside the castle park, including Shidare-zakura (weeping sakura) trees. While this was our 3rd visit to this castle, it was the first time when it was covered in snow – together with sakura  🙂

 

 

Apart from sakura, Ume (plum) flowers too were covered in snow.

 

It’s good to have warm soba noodles for lunch after leaving the castle park when temperature was around 1-2C.

Snowfall had stopped and on our way back we dropped by the Harumiya (Spring Shrine) – one of two Shimosha and nearby Manji stone buddha in Shimosuwa town.

ps. visited the Akimiya (Autumn Shrine), the other Shimosha 2 years ago in another sakura trip.

Suwa Taisha

Manji stone Buddha

 

Had a coffee break with nice macha (green tea) roll cake in a small local cafe  – we were the only customers.  Headed back to onsen hotel and dropped by one of my fav local sake brewery – Masumi (真澄) from Suwa. Though sake tasting was offered, had to pass due to driving.

 

 

Stayed in a 100-year old onsen hotel on the lakeside. Ordered Masumi (sake) for 2 nights during Kaiseki dinner 🙂

 

 

===>   Takato Castle Ruins Park  ===>

 

JP 2018 Koyo Shikoku (Part 2)

Shiromine-ji (白峯寺)

Heading downhill we arrived at Shiromine-ji – #81 temple where koyo was at peak.  It was also the tomb of Sutoku Emperor (崇徳天皇白峰御陵).

 

Kotohira-gu (金刀比羅宮)

next we dropped by Kotohira-gu, which is the main shrine of Kompira shrines in Japan.

Climbed several hundred stairs to reach the main hall.  Nice views of Kotohira town and Sanuki-Fuji in the distance.

 

Lunch in a modern restaurant operated by Shiseido at the foothill.

 

Iya valley (祖谷溪)

After leaving Kotohira-gu in Kagawa prefecture, drove via a narrow and meandering mountain road for an hour into Iya valley in western Tokushima prefecture.

==>Stay in Iya onsen hotel

 

===>  Part  3  ===>

 

JP 2007 May Hida Road

Visited Nagoya > Takayama > Norikura Kogen > Kamikochi > Rose garden in Gifu in late May.

Takayama

Visited Takayama 2nd time since 2000. Strolled in the old town area with many cool local shops. The Hida Kokubunji and the thousand-year old Ginkgo tree should not be missed.

Hirayu onsen

Stayed overnight in Hirayu onsen.

Norikura Kogen

Went up to Tatami-daira @2700m in Norikura Kogen. While Mt Norikura and trail was covered in snow, hiked up to Fujime-dake @2800m. From the summit, Kamikochi and the Japanese Alps could be seen in the distance.

 

 

Kamikochi

3rd visit in Kamikochi. While we were on the way trekking to Myojin-ike drizzle turned into heavy rain, so we did not stay long nor take any photos and had to return to bus terminal.

 

Fukuchi onsen

Another Hida-style onsen ryokan in Oku-Hida onsen-go. Fukuchi literally means “Land of Fortune”.

Takayama morning market

 

 

==> Rose garden in Gifu ==>