Dazaifu Tenmangu (大宰府天満宮)
After checking out we headed back to Fukuoka in about 130km away. Dropped by Dazaifu Tenmangu in the outskirts of Fukuoka.
Though it was a Friday, it was fairly crowded on the road and inside the temple ground, where lots of locals were praying – probably for good luck in the new year, and students passing exams. While it was famous for Ume blossom – with 6000 Ume trees, one or two trees have started blooming in early stage.
locals lined up praying
Camphor tree estimated to be over 1000 years old
early Ume blossom
Returned car in Hakata and checked into hotel nearly station. It was lucky that we bumped into the Light Festival by teamLab in Fukuoka Castle Ruins.
Visited the Borderless teamLab in Tokyo/Odaiba 1 year ago. As the show was outdoor the night sky and night views of Fukuoka (featured photo) could be observed. Winter constellations such as Orion, Canis Major, Taurus, Gemini could clearly be seen by naked eye on a cloudless night.
Orion and Sirius
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Harajiki falls (原尻の滝)
After checking out we headed to the Harajiki falls in Bungo-ono (豊後大野) near Taketa, in less than 80 km to the south of Beppu. The falls span 120m across and of 20m tall. In summer the falls is at its peak volume. Strolled around and had lunch in one of the large road stations nearby.
viewed from the bridge
Fuko-ji Magaibutsu (普光寺磨崖仏)
Noted about this from the pamphlet in the road station. Dropped by Fuko-ji – the stoned buddha was sculpted on a cliff wall. Of over 11m this is the tallest in Japan, sculpted during the Kamakura-era.
Before returning to Beppu for our last onsen stay, we dropped by the Okajoshi and Taketa town. Have contemplated of possibly returning in Spring so did not stay long.
Checked into seaside onsen hotel in Beppu, selected French dinner course. While all rooms have ensuite onsen we soaked in the furo on the top floor with no one else occupying it 🙂
A day in the Kunisaki Peninsula (国東半島)
First we arrived at Usa Jinja (宇佐神宮) in less than 1 hour. It was built in the 8th century and is the Head Jingu for thousands of Jingu dedicated to Hachiman in Japan. Unfortunately, the treasure hall was closed so we left after 1 hour.
entrance to Usa Jingu
Happy New Year (in red), Reiwa 2nd year (in black)
Next we drove further eastward to Fuki-ji (literally wealthy), which was also built in the 8th century. As a national treasure, the main hall is the oldest wooden structure in Kyushu. Inside there are paintings and wooden sculptures of Amida Buddha (no photo is allowed). As the temple was small we stayed for a while. Had casual lunch in a cafe nearby and caught sight of Ume in early bloom.
headed further uphill to this temple of 1300 years old beneath Mt. Futago (literally twins). It’s the head temple of the Tendai sect in the peninsula. Approaching from the lower car park there is a pair of stone Nio guardians (featured photo), followed by a flight of stone stairs before arriving at the main temple area, where the Gomado Hall (literally protection against evils) is.
head temple of Tendai sect
Before returning to Beppu, dropped by Kitsuki for a coffee break and the Kitsuki Castle, which has been reconstructed and probably is the smallest castle in Japan. From the castle, it offers nice views of the Beppu Bay, Beppu and Oita city in the distance. Did not stay as rest of the ground was under construction.
Stayed in this newly opened (5 months old) 5-star onsen hotel in Beppu. Due to its location, it has panoramic views of the city and Beppu Bay below.
Onsen is sourced from nearby Kanawa onsen, though not as smooth as earlier onsens in this trip. Rotenburo also has nice views. Our room is spacious with a balcony (70 sqm).
Beppu Bay and city below
Mt Tsurumi in the distance
Excellent dinner course in open kitchen Atelier
Oita tuna and pear
marinated mackerel, caper-lemon bottarga
smoked Bungo pork, beetroot dressing
Oita Amadai, yuba ravioli, Taketa saffron sauce
excellent grilled Kyushu beef, mushrrom galette
suggested red wine by glass
Jasmine tea mousse, Persimmons mousse and jelly, ginger ice-cream
Night and morning views
resting area outside public onsen
lobby and reception
After checkout on the next morning I drove eastward to Yufuin, about 160km away – D1 of using the KEP. Dropped by Hida town for breaks and lunch along the way. It was raining and probably snowing on the expressway. Snow was on mountains/trees but not on roads.
Went for Unagi and ordered Hitsumabushi-style – our fav on a cold day.
Strolled around the small town after lunch but not for long as it was cold around 2C and drizzling.
Returned to Yufuin (5th time) and had coffee in Snoopy Cafe again before checkin.
snoopy in yukata
Checked into an onsen hotel in Yufuin – in a small mountainous area where onsen is in slight bluish colour (2nd stay) and also smooth for skin complexion ! Elsewhere in Yufuin onsen is transparent.
Booked an Italian dinner course for a break. The restaurant was in the onsen town so had to meander slowly downhill via narrow road allowing 1+ car to pass thru’.
Dinner was delicious using local and Italian sources. Apart from us it seemed there were other customers though seated in a separate room. Had more than enough privacy and good service.
orange, mozerella, pork pate
50 types of fresh vege
Pasta in clams (hamaguri)
seafood in wrap
grilled Chianina beef from Italy
Strawberry parfait, Pannacotta, marshmallow
checked out on the next morning with clear views of Mt Yufuin and head to Kunisaki Peninsula.
Before leaving Takeo onsen, we dropped by the Takeo gate (Chinese style).
Headed north to Okawachiyama (大川内山) in Imari (伊万里) – a famous porcelain town less than 1 hour by national road.
While we visited Arita – another porcelain town in Saga more than 2 years ago, this porcelain village is tucked inside mountains. At the entrance is the Nabeshima-Hanyobashi (Clan Kiln Bridge) decorated with porcelain. There are pottery workshops and store-fronts inside the village, easily visited on foot.
The small Nabeshima Oniwayakikan displayed some precious and beautiful wares, where the abdicated Heisei emperor and other Japanese royal family have visited.
visits by the Japanese royal family
Next we headed further north to coastal town Karatsu for lunch, also dropped by the renovated Karatsu Castle.
Marugame udon with oysters, scallops. Goubou and white fish in tempura
Ureshino onsen (嬉野温泉)
Finally we returned to our next onsen ryokan in Ureshino where we stayed 2 years ago. One of its annexed ryokan (15 min drive) has a large rotenburo by a mountain stream. We soaked in it before having dinner. The onsen was also smooth and good for skin complexion.
huge rotenburo – taken from poster
Dinner was sumptuous as expected. The ryokan is famous of its in-house “yu-tofu” (tofu in soup). The pot of yellow Ume (plum) on my back was fragrant.
year of the rat
Visited northern Kyushu for 1 week to enjoy onsens in winter and sightseeing (6th visit). Picked up rental car upon landing at Fukuoka airport.
Overall itin – Fukuoka > Takeo onsen (1n) > Imari > Ureshino onsen (1n) > Yufuin onsen > Kunisaki Peninsula > Beppu onsen (2n), Bungo-ono > Dazaifu > Fukuoka/Hakata (2n)
In my planning, have budgeted to buy a 6-day KEP @JPY7.6k for the entire car rental period. However during car pick-up, the car rental staff advised that it’s possible to activate the KEP at a later date, thus saving 2 days and paid JPY5.6K for the last 4 days. On the first two days (national holidays), toll fees were charged at 30% less using ETC card.
Takeo onsen town (武雄温泉)
Arrived at Takeo onsen town about 85km away in 1 hour+, expressway was less busy after passing by Tosu IC. Before checkin we dropped by a cosy coffee house. Apart from us, another local couple were chatting while locals were buying cakes/bread.
Stay in Mifune-Rakuen Hotel (御船山楽園ホテル)
When we first stepped into the lobby, we took a step back – we thought we went to the wrong place. It was dark though decorated by lightings akin to teamLab.
Nice, renovated rotenburo and onsen was nice to skin complexion. Selected dinner course serving Saga A5 beef and seafood. Room and onsen areas where refurbished with a tint of modern design. Overall it was a nice stay. Service was meticulous and sincere.
welcome drinks upon checkin
steamed Saga A5 beef
After check out on next morning, we visited the Mifune-Rakuen (with free entrance as overnight guests). It was built over 150 years ago by the 28th Nabeshima Lord in Saga. It has an area of 50 thousand square metres below a cliff.
Though it was in winter, we walked around the garden in about 1 hour. Some red Tsubaki (Camelia) was in full bloom.
Tsubaki in bloom
500 stone buddhas
Stayed in this historical ryokan in Naka Senbon of Yoshinoyama. Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣 秀吉) had stayed more than 400 years ago for sakura in its landscape garden. The utensil that he used – cha bento was on display.
Later when we were staying in another onsen hotel in Nara/Tenri, a documentary by a local Nara TV mentioned that the recent three generations of Japanese emperors had also stayed. The room that they had stayed with views of the landscape garden, historical artifacts were shown in that program.
cha-bento used by Toyotomi Hideyoshi
Note that the onsen served in that ryokan is not sourced locally but transported from nearby onsen.
Visited World Heritage Daigo-ji (醍醐寺) on a fairly cold day (below 10C). Have visited twice for sakura but this is the first time for koyo there.
Passed by Karamon and Niomon, reached the Shimo-Daigo (Lower Daigo) where Hondo (Main Hall) and the 5-storey Pagoda (1000+ years old) are located. Headed further up to Bentendo (featured photo) in gorgeous koyo.
Hondo (Main Hall)
heading up to Sh
Benten-ike with reflections
Treasures in Sanboin and landscape garden
Also visited the Reihokan, a fairly large museum keeping a significant collection of historical artifacts including documents, scriptures, paintings and sculptures. No photo is allowed inside.
On the next morning, strolled around our hotel overlooking Kamogawa near San-jo. Took JR Haruka express train to Osaka/KIX as usual, though this was our first time riding on a Hello Kitty Haruka.
Nishitetsu Solaria Kyoto hotel
Kamogawa from hotel room
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Visited Arashiyama again in peak koyo. Walked along the banks of Hozugawa in less crowds than in previous years (on weekdays).
Togetsukyo (Crossing Moon Bridge)
Lunch in Suiran – 2 years in a row
Prolonging life room
glimpse of its garden
Landscape garden inside Suiran